08/2007

Small Bites

Lisa Shames
UR Chicago

Ask any restaurateur the top three factors that determine an eatery's success and inevitably you'll get the same answer: location, location, location. With its central downtown setting across the street from Millennium Park, it's obvious the peeps behind Tavern at the Park were listening. More than just prime real estate, Tavern has the food to back up the beautiful views of the park and of Michigan Avenue (they'll get even better when the rooftop patio opens next year) — and with fave Chicago chef John Hogan at the helm, that comes as no surprise. Backing away from his French culinary roots, Hogan describes the food as "classic American with some contemporary twists." Sure, they've got sliders ($10-$15 fro four)—try them at the downstairs bar—but the blue-cheese crust on the filet mignon mini-sandwich is more high-end than White Castle (Hogan does something similar at steakhouse Keefer's). The fondue with pulled chicken, roasted garlic and Fontina cheese ($9) is creamy without being cloying, served with toasted baguette slices that add the right amount of crunchy texture. The size of the marinated rotisserie chicken ($17) will definitely please the doggy-bag set. After one bite of the Frosted Flake-crusted banana in the fried banana split ($7), we could've swore we heard a "That's grrreat" somewhere in the distance.

- Lisa Shames

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