08/16/2007

Restaurants have flair but food seals deal
NEW KIDS ON THE BLOCK

DENISE I. O'NEAL
Chicago Sun Times

TAVERN AT THE PARK

130 E. Randolph (312) 552-0070

Executive chef: John Hogan; chef de cuisine Michael Cisternino
Food: Classic American
Hours: 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday-Friday; noon to 10 p.m. Saturday; noon to 5 p.m. Sundays, June through September
Prices: Entrees, $18-$34
Credit cards: All major
Parking: Valet, $12

Reason to go: The food -- and an incredible view. The braised beef short ribs melted in my mouth. The ribs are slow-roasted in a red wine demi-glace, with pearl onions, carrots and celery ($22).

One drawback -- the menu is a la carte, so the bill can add up when ordering sides. But when you taste the whipped potato casserole ($5), you'll forget about the additional cost. You'll also forget the old saying, "It's not homemade unless there's lumps." These velvety smooth potatoes put Mom's to shame -- or at least give them a run for their money.

A "skybox," which seats 22, is on the second floor. The semi-private dining area offers a panoramic view of Millennium Park and Michigan Avenue.

Looking for a better view? Next summer, the restaurant will offer rooftop terrace dining.

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