09/2007

Editorial Review for Tavern at the Park

Jennifer Olvera
CitySearch

The Scene
Soaring windows front this flagstone-accented American eatery from the folks behind Keefer's. An off-the-clock cocktailers' dream welcomes with a sweeping, semicircular bar accented by wood trim, clubby, nail-head-trimmed stools and two-tone leather booths. At the rear, a vintage Chicago poster-adorned, wood-paneled dining room is more intimate with leather-topped tables leading to a second-floor dining space.

The Food
Classics get an update at this grown-up American eatery. A mound of fried calamari with creamy chili sauce is studded with battered herbs, lemon wheels and garlic shards. Poofs of airy, breading-encased shrimp offer contrast to crisp, pepper-inflected Asian slaw with sticky-sweet mango glaze. Rotisserie-roasted prime rib with creamy horseradish is supper club-sleek; a moist, double-cut pork chop slathered with sweet, clingy cherry cola barbecue sauce invokes retro-cool.

Hits: Diners who appreciate solid tavern food won't be disappointed, and most everything is solidly prepared.

Misses: Ho-hum mac and cheese was generous enough for sharing but bland, dry and suffering from a lack of cheesiness.

Insider Tips

Parking
It's possible to find street parking, which costs $6 for 2 hours. Best bets are on Lake Street or Columbus Drive.

What to Drink
The restaurant serves up inventive cocktails like the de Castro lemonade--Bacardi Limon with fresh lemon and lime juices and a splash of Ting--and the Mind's Eye with Ciroc, sweet green tea and a cucumber garnish.

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